Konichiwa, Japan: Bathing in Beppu

It took a tram,

then a train, then a ferry,

then a bus to get to Beppu on the Island of Kyushu.

The entire journey took about 8 hours, the slowest part being the ferry. The Ehime boat barely had 30 people on it and a handful of cars. First class people get the bow end and private tatami resting rooms. We second class passengers got the stern, which included two large, communal resting rooms.

There were a few chairs dotted around, and we couldn't believe no one else sat up at the top on the banquette overlooking the sterns-eye view.

our perch

out view of the last, long peninsula of Shikoku

Beppu is known for its "8 hells", which can seen on a cold day.

This is a very warm day so hells did not show themselves.

The hells in question are a circuit of thermal waters belching forth into the open air. The steam that arises looks like the smoke from the fires of hell circling this small resort town on the coast. Each one has a small amusement park atmosphere, with tourist kitsch around the bubbling mud, geisers, and red coloured water. You can get buried in warm sand here, or hot mud, or cook your dinner on the thermal steams.

It's an odd little town in general, beyond the hells, but then we remembered that there are direct flights from Korea and China to this area (also from Finland for some inexplicable reason), and it made a bit more sense. There are huge BBQ restaurants and three big gambling houses, Chinese food and other ethnic varieties as well. That's it - this is a seaside resort for tourists. Not completely Japanese but not too much like anything else. There is a lovely, empty beach with a decrepit raised cement platform that is covered with a rotting roof, exactly for what purpose we don't know as there are no tables or benches, no place for a band or dancing. Several nude lady statues in the park that are more Caucasian and Asian in form.

After a wander around we happily returned to the most wonderful little ryokan - about 90 years old and run by a young professional family. There is an indoor onsen and a lovely outdoor rotemburo (outdoor pool). We had the top floor room, with our own toilet and wrap around hall. We were given yukatas and tea, and had our last night of the trip sleeping on tatami in a traditional Japanese room. It was quiet and miles removed from the craziness of outside.