Heading off to Henro

As aforementioned, Tokushima is our first stop on Shikoku Island as it is the start of the henro pilgrimage.

The henro is actually a person, a pilgrim, who is visiting any, all or some of the 88 Buddhist temples that encircle the island. Traditionally it is a pilgrimage on foot, but for those who are attracted to such an endeavour, they should know that it covers approximately 1400 kilometres and a lot of changing altitudes. 

The whole point is to follow in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi, an 8th Century monk who achieved enlightenment on this island, established Shingon Buddhism in Japan and contributed to the culture of the country significantly. 

Some do the entire circuit in 60-odd days, claiming 30 km a day. Most do it in bits, and on coach tours, in cars or trains or bikes, over time. The walking routes are fairly well marked out with little red arrows and stickers of cartoonish pilgrims. Even so, you are sometimes walking on busy town streets, under highway flyovers, over waterways, and through fields. At best there are paths through the forest, and birdsong, and wild purple azaleas in warm suchine. At worst you are walking on a busy road full of cars, in the rain and the wind, or scrambling up some muddy mountainside.

To be properly kitted out, you need your white cotton clothing, with long sleeves and 同行二人 (Dogyo Ninin) written on the back, which means "two people on the same journey", referencing following the path of Kobo Daishi. Then you need your cone-shaped sedge hat to keep off the sun and rain, with a Sanskrit mark pointing forward. and don;t forget your wooden staff, or walking stick, some of which are decorated with braid and bells. 

Most add a sash, which are available in indigo, purple, gold or orange, all marked identically with gold symbols. Then there's the mala, a sort of Buddhist's roasary. When praying, it is held with both hands together, whereupon it is said that "the illusions of one's mind will disappear and one will obtain merit." A bag is needed to carry food, incense and other things, including the pilgrimage book.

what every well-dressed pilgrim is wearing

even the anime versions

Look! There go some hanro!

Ah the pilgrimage book! Books with white accordian pages are sold all over Japan, and then stamped or hand-inscribed with beautiful characters detailing the name of the temple and the date for a few dollars. Hanro carry special books, that are much larger and dedicated to this pilgrimage. Some prefer to have the inscription made on their white jacket, and this is then handed down through the family as a sacred relic.

In my 60th year, I fancy some enlightenment, and so planned to get to a few temples. We walk the old route, and only have about 3 days available for this activity, so I hope to get to 10 or so. I did not buy the whole gear set-up: I have a hat and a back already, and I can use a stick of bamboo lying around if the going gets tough. but I did get a circlet of wooden beads, with a curious white bead in the middle that, when you hold it to the light (and a microscope - the thing it tiny!), shows a golden Buddha floating around in a navy sky. I also bought a sash as my only external indication I was doing hanro. I chose indigo - it is not only the most recessive, but Tokushima is known for its indigo dying industry and so I thought it fitting as we were starting from there. I also have my book that I bought in Tokyo and have had inscribed at every temple and shrine I've been to. It is rapidly filling up, but there are enough pages for whatever temples I can get to on Skikoku. 

Bring on the enlightenment!