We'a going to Iya

We are taking a little departure from the coastal rim of Shikoku and henro to explore the Iya River Valley. Primarily because there is a ryokan that sounds wonderful and the perfect place to spend our Christmas gift money from my parents (thanks BZ and Pop). We had to change trains in Utazu, where we did have enough time to shove luggage in lockers and trek to one of the hanro temples, (#78, Goshoji)

Back on the train, it wasn't long until the hills became taller and closer, the river became narrower and faster, and the tunnels became longer and darker. Switchbacks took us climbing for an hour, until we reached Oboke station, where we had an hour or so before being picked up by the Iya Onsen shuttle bus. This took another 30 minutes up a narrow twisting road cut into the steep mountain side. they are very safe drivers here and watch their speed carefully - this is not a place to take chances. 

entering the Iya valley

tiny town of Oboke

iya river

Iya landscape

Martin and carp windsocks

white water riders under flying carp

we saw a lot of this creature but have no idea
who or what it is

even here it's possible to have a garden

our train

I was amused so see warning signs of 10% inclines/declines. I tried not to show it, but inside I was terribly smug, having driving British Columbia's "Hill", Highway 20, a road so steep the province wouldn't build it (the locals did) and which is still unpaved, one lane, and without guardrails, and has a grade of 18%. And I drove it in the fog and snow.

The Iya Onsen ryokan is not all that much to look at, but it has some key elements that attract us. It is secluded - there is no other place within several kilometres. It's built on stilts about 60% up the slope of a mountain, looking straight down to the river below. 

Secondly it has traditional Japanese rooms, although we couldn't get into one of the older, original ones. So we could wear our Jakata and slippers around and shuffle over tatami mats and drink tea in our little sitting space. 

Thirdly it is known for its keiseki (haute) cuisine. One chooses either the Japanese or Western menu and there was no question for us. Japanese all the way, for both meals on our plan, dinner and breakfast. And then there is a natural onsen (hotspring). Actually there are two, a large indoor one overlooking the mountain and valley below us, and an open air one at the bottom of the mountain side. To get to that one, we must use the bespoke funicular, a more eccentric form travel than any we have taken before to essentially take a bath.

funicular going down

our room view of funicular workings

 Get ready for photos of food!