Temples, and shrines and gardens #3 - the eastern ones

The east of the city has a wealth of beautiful sites. We would take a short detour from the Philosophers' Walk and then join it again refreshed. One of the best was Eikan-do, which also provided a great view across the northern part of the city. Eikan, a nickname for an Abbot called Yokan, was particularly generous to the poor, and thus received a lot of respect from the locals. But the place is particularly famous for two reasons, one for its gorgeous autumn colour, and also for is Looking Back Amida. 

This story dates from 1082 on a cold February morning, when Eikan-do was praying whiel walking around a statue of Amida. At the break of dawn, Eikan-do, lost in a trance, suddenly came to and saw Amida climb down from his pedestal and start to walk away, beckoning Eikan-do to follow. Gobsmacked, Eikan-do could only stare, and Amida turned to look back. Eikan-do prayed "please keep this form forever" and thus a statue in this form was made. 

We saw the statue, looking over its shoulder at us (photos not allowed), but were more struck by the extensive garden. It was monk training week and we heard chanting, which was enchanting. We also saw what could be the most lovely elevator in Japan (note the etched maple leaves), and marveled at the woodwork about the curving stairs to the pagoda, that had a little hut at the top looking like a covered bus stop that afforded the lovely view.

Then there was Honen-in, a less visited place that was one of our favourites. Secluded and with a raked gravel garden set in woods, with an atmospheric cemetery on the side of the mountain and pool with lotus bulbs. A most tranquil refuge.

We were met at the admission desk at Reikan-ji Temple by a spritely lady who boasted the place had 70 camellias, but whether she meant 70 trees or 70 species we don't know. there were certainly a lot of them and they were almost all in bloom. Reikan-ji is a nunnery, whose first abbess was the princess of Emperor Gomizunoo. Whether that means he was fond of her or not is open to modern supposition. The garden is a typical example of the Edo period,with standing stones and a narrow pond that harmonizes with stone lanterns. Emperor Gomizunoo was a fan of camellias and in that we can agree.

In 1264, the Emperor built a palace that he later turned into a temple, so deeply was he into Zen Buddhism. That temple, Nanzen-in, still has part of its original garden, which was meant for strolling through and enjoying. and quite rightly: it has been designated one of the three most scenic historical gardens in Kyoto. It has an enormous and impressive entry Sanmon, but what we found a little surprising was a brick aquaduct that would not be out of place in 19th century England. A sign indicated that a crack had been detected but did not pose a threat to visitors. Only in Japan could someone have confidence that this is true.

Following a path along the aquaduct, which veers off into a steep mountain path, one goes up and up and up until one finds a waterfall used for bathing, but only for those who practice the faith. No nude bathing here!